MargauxAddress: Area: Burj DubaiCity: DubaiTel:
04 439 7555Fax: Email: Website: Price Range:
Dhs 500+Cuisine: French
, ItalianFeatures: Afternoon Tea
, Business Lunch
There may not be a buzz surrounding the opening of Margaux not yet anyway but there should be. The chef, Julian Mercier, trained under the Michelin studded Alain Ducasse, the venue is perched on a balcony with a prime view of the increasingly magnificent Burj Dubai and there is an 800-bottle wine list. Itâ€™s the type of restaurant Dubai should fall for, and the only reason I can think of that it hasnâ€™t is that Margaux has yet to appear on the cityâ€™s radar.It didnâ€™t take long for my date and I to be utterly wooed by the venue. The menu was a wiley temptress, and also a surprising one. The selection was pleasantly brief, yet every description was so beguiling that choosing what to order remained difficult. And for a brasserie run by a French chef, the options were startlingly Italian. I opted for the ominously vague four course menu. It was a concept I wasnâ€™t really familiar with. It was neither a tasting menu, nor a set menu; in both cases you know what youâ€™re getting. Instead, it was like ordering in the dark.â€˜You just tell us what kind of main you want,â€™ the waiter instructed. He didnâ€™t seem to want specifics, like, â€˜the truffle beef dish looks niceâ€™. Instead, he just wanted to know â€˜beefâ€™, or â€˜fishâ€™. I chose â€˜lambâ€™. The remaining three courses remained a mystery until they landed in front of me. The menu as a whole isnâ€™t cheap, but this strange, exciting, enigmatic four-course meal was comparably reasonable at Dhs395.The first course was a nearly disintegrating slab of the creamiest and most distinctive mozzarella I have yet to encounter in this city (maybe because it was Buratta, some of the best). In parts the cheese oozed liquid, and every bite had the beautifully grassy flavour that is the trademark of truly great mozzarella. I was startled by the accompanying bowl of assorted Italian tomatoes in vinaigrette. The slivers came in bright yellows and reds, and were perfectly ripe (not what I was expecting this early in the year).My date, meanwhile, was presented with a juicy and spoonably soft lobster claw topped with a light cream sauce with spring peas. The resultant noises of enjoyment coming from our table were so indecent, we were glad the restaurant was modestly filled. Her main, however, a slightly dry spit roasted chicken, didnâ€™t induce the same rapture.